Okay, I don’t know that this fried rice recipe will make you want to marry the fried rice and have its fried rice babies, and honestly, I don’t know what “fried rice babies” would look like, except that they’re probably mushy and really gross. But you will want to marry me for giving you this recipe. But I can’t marry you. I’m married to my work. Also, my wife. Also, I’m having an affair with a cup of fried rice. You shut up. Don’t you judge me.
*whispers to the cup of fried rice, it’s okay, baby, it’s okay, shhh*
And yes, I know that picture up there is of a pea pod and not of fried rice, but whatever. I tried taking a nice photo of fried rice and it doesn’t look nice, because fried rice isn’t a nice-looking dish. It tastes great, but it looks like, you know, food garbage.
I AM TIRED OF YOUR JUDGEY-FACED JUDGEYNESS.
*stares*
*stares longer*
*stares so hard, eyes begin to dry out like grapes gone to raisins*
*blink blink*
Yes, we can now begin the recipe.
So.
In Hawaii, many breakfast places serve breakfast options that are not traditional here in the Upper 48. The loco moco, for instance, is a miracle health food, and by “health food,” I mean “food that will lodge itself in your heart and, provided that it does not kill you with a massive myocardial infarction, will provide you with a steady stream of nutrients for at least 60 days.” The loco moco is: a bowl of rice, topped with a hamburger patty, topped with an egg, topped with brown gravy because hey why the fuck not just dump some gravy on it. It is delicious. I was in Maui in November and I still have a loco moco clogging my aorta right now.
Another thing you might get on Hawaii for breakfast is:
Fried rice.
(For triple death points, you can get a loco moco made with fried rice.)
As such, I have brought that tradition home with me, and sometimes I make fried rice for breakfast. It is a surprisingly warm and comforting start to the day — the food equivalent of a cozy Christmas sweater. Except now I’m imagining eating a sweater? Which is not appetizing at all, is it? I am not very good at this writing thing, I apologize.
POINT IS, IT’S FUCKING SCRUMPTIOUS.
My family loves it. And they’re not just saying that because of the trap doors underneath their chairs that trigger whenever they say anything negative about me or my food.
Here now, is how you make my version of breakfast fried rice.
First, you need some rice. And you need some old rice. I don’t mean that you need ancient, antediluvian rice. I don’t mean you need moldy rice stuffed in a dirty gym sock and left to ferment. I mean that you need to have cooked rice on hand, rice that has cooled all the way, where the starch has settled down, where its texture is firmer and ensures that your fried rice won’t be gummy, like you’re eating something that was pre-chewed. I either make the rice the night before, then pop it in the YETI CLOSET to cool down, or I just say fuck it and I used the rice from last night’s Chinese dinner. I like to use a quart (two pints) of rice, or maybe two cups if I’m making it here. And two cups of uncooked rice becomes around six cups of cooked rice, I guess because rice is basically some kind of wizard food.
Next up, you need the SAUCE. Except it’s not really sauce, because — well, I dunno, it doesn’t sauce the rice, it just blends in with it because each grain of rice is cooked. Whatever. Shut up. I’m not a chef. I don’t know the magical chef words like saucier and mirepoix and cocaine. Point is, you need some goddamn liquid to flavor the rice, and here is the liquid blend I make: two TBsp soy sauce, two TBsp fish sauce, one TBsp oyster sauce, two TBsp sherry vinegar. If you want it a little sweet, substitute hoisin for the oyster, or use a sweet balsamic vinegar instead of the sherry. Also add in: three garlic gloves, minced, and about an equal amount of ginger, also minced.
Sometimes I add in a splash of mirin, because I’m wacky like that.
WHISK IT. WHISK IT GOOD. /devo
Now it is time for
BACON.
Okay, bacon is overused culinarily, I get it, but bacon — a good, smoky bacon — adds a nice layer of flavor, so clap your trap and get out four or five slices of bacon, chopped.
Put it in a pot, medium-high heat.
(Technically, a wok, but I don’t have a wok, I have a pot.)
Cook the bacon until its precious bacon essence begins to fill the room.
Then, as the bacon cooks (you don’t want it hella crispy, you just want it where it has begun to yield its unctuousness to the bottom of the pot), add in either one bigger onion or two smaller onions. Chopped, obviously, don’t just thunk it in there like it’s a fucking softball — do I need to tell you all this? God, you’re the worst. This is why I won’t marry you, I swear.
Now, it is time for the second meat.
And I want you to know, the second meat is Spam.
Yes, the pink quivering can-shaped ham-blob.
Yes, it is a canned meat.
No, it is not some kind of scrapple-based offal.
Yes, it might be a gelatinous cube from D&D.
Yes, it has enough sodium in it to mummify your internal organs.
AND YES, IT IS GODDAMN DELICIOUS.
Okay, listen, my Mom-Mom used to fry Spam in lard. It was stupidly, disgustingly amazing. I stopped eating Spam at one point because I became convinced it was something gross, as if it was just, I dunno, a can full of pulverized pig anuses or whatever, and hey, maybe it is. Though honestly, the can says it’s basically just ham made from pork shoulder, and it tastes mostly like ham, and also, did I mention it’s goddamn delicious? Sure, yes, you have to sometimes scrape off gelatin, and that can seem off-putting until you realize that gelatin is a natural byproduct. The gelatin makes it fancy! Just think of Spam as hillbilly terrine. Sidenote: my grandmother lived till she was 89, and she was tough as a brick wall. I credit the Spam in lard.
So, you need a can of Spam.
Just do it. Just go buy the Spam.
Cube it.
Put it in the mix with the bacon and the onion.
You can drain off some bacon fat at this point if you really want, or you can just leave it in there. I don’t care. I’m not your Mom. I don’t control what you do. I tried to control what you do but the bio-chip I inserted in your brain through your nose while you sleep is presently malfunctioning, and every time I push the reboot button, you pee yourself.
(Oh, uhh, yeah, P.S. I’m the reason you keep peeing yourself? Sorry.)
Lower heat maybe at this point? Medium heat.
Once that cooks down a little bit, I make a little room in the center of the pot, I scramble a couple of eggs, then I put them right in there. I scramble them real quick, then mix them up with the rest of the business.
Now: rice.
Dump the rice in.
That’s all you do with it. Nothing more complicated than that. You don’t need to whisper secret entreaties to it, there are no safe words, no gentle caresses are required. Just dump it in there unceremoniously, as if it has offended you and you are discarding it, unloved and disregarded.
Mix-a-mix-a-mix.
I like to let the rice settle for a couple minutes, till it starts to stick a little to the bottom of the pot — not burned, not exactly, but so some of it starts to get crispy.
Then: dump in your liquid.
No, not your pee, GOD, YOU’RE SO GROSS AND WEIRD —
I mean the soy sauce business. With the garlic and the other stuff.
Get it in there, mix it around, use a hard metal device (not a sex toy or a hunting knife) to scrape up the rice bits from the bottom so it’s all starting to incorporate.
Now, you’re saying, CHUCK, WHERE ARE THE VEGETABLES.
I NEED HEALTH, CHUCK. I’M DYING. WE’RE ALL DYING. SCURVY IS RAMPANT.
And I answer: THE VEGETABLES WERE IN YOU ALL ALONG.
Then your heart glows gold and your chest opens up and maaaaagical vegetables fly out, and they sing a hymn to your greatness. Also, I may have dropped acid. Or maybe you dropped acid. Did we both drop acid? What a coinkydink.
Okay, you also need to add some real vegetables into the mix, and here’s where it gets pretty nicely customizable: you can add in whatever goddamn vegetables you want. Frozen is fine. Leftovers are great. Get cuckoo with it. I tend to like to add in a mix of frozen peas and corn. Carrots, too, though if I don’t have frozen, I’ll grate fresh carrot into the mix. If you want some greens, add in spinach. Or some pre-cooked broccoli. I don’t care what you put in there. It’s your fried rice. Mix in some kiwi fruit and marbles. Elk teeth and crickets. Don’t care. It’s your food. I’m not the one who has to eat it afterward.
Again, I let that go a little while until the vegetables are nice and green but have not yet lost that brightness and color. Now, it is time for the finishing touches.
First, take either some unrefined coconut oil (it must be unrefined, like a dockworker) or some sesame oil, and mix it around. The coconut will lend an almost-sweetness. The sesame oil will lend a sesame-ness. Or you could just use motor oil, but I’m pretty sure that’s poisonous.
Second, some chopped scallions are nice. Or cilantro. Or bean sprouts.
Finally, I then fry up an egg or two — sunny side up — and pop it on top of each bowl.
And that’s it.
That’s all she wrote.
I don’t know who “she” is but literally, that’s all she wrote.
What now? Shut up and eat it, I guess.
AND THEN THANK ME IN THE FORM OF CASH AND ADORATION.
*stares*
*waits for cash*
*waits for adoration*
boundbeautifunk says:
I go through breakfast binges during which I make the same thing 4-5 times a week until I perfect it, then move to something else. It always has to be fast because of…. life.
Past binges have been: Curry noodles, fried ricotta, potato and egg waffles, spinach, greek yogurt, fruit salsa wraps, sauteed cabbage with mustard seeds and cumin …
Right now, it’s black rice noodles in kombu broth, with poached egg, lime macerated cabbage, and an eff ton of hot sauce. Fishy kombu broth + soy sauce + mirin + egg yolk = YUMS.
February 7, 2017 — 9:29 AM
Kelly Self says:
I need you to come to my house and make breakfast for me!
February 7, 2017 — 11:22 AM
Marie says:
*adoration*
*bit of drool*
February 7, 2017 — 9:34 AM
conniejjasperson says:
I do a vegan fried rice that is beyond delicious. Perhaps our ingredients differ (okay no meat or egg in mine) but we both seem to end up with comfort food, and our families love to eat it. My carnivore hubby asks me to make it. Food is love and cooking is one way to show our families we love them.
February 7, 2017 — 9:40 AM
Anna says:
Ooh, what do you put in yours? I read this and immediately started thinking about how to do a vegetarian version. I’m thinking smoked tofu, mushrooms, and some kind of chili-garlic oil.
February 7, 2017 — 10:26 AM
mitziflyte says:
Dear Goddess, why did I (who is trying to lose weight and manage her BS — both kinds), did I read this?
Now I’m hungry…just not for the Spam..
February 7, 2017 — 9:46 AM
Oden says:
I tried this. But when you said to go get the SPAM, you didn’t tell me to turn off the eye of the stove. I came home to A CONFLAGRATION, CHUCK. A “LOOK, THERE’S TWO HOBBITS TRYING TO MELT JEWELRY” CONFLAGRATION! So all I’ve had this morning is Spam toasted over the ashes of my hopes and dreams!
Thanks, Chuck. Thanks a lot!
February 7, 2017 — 9:48 AM
C. J. Hartwell says:
This is, without a doubt, the best written recipe in all of recipe history. I laughed, I cried, it lodged itself in my soul. Which is weird, but what can you do?
I now have a fried rice soul.
February 7, 2017 — 9:59 AM
Rebeca Andrade says:
*throws 10 adorations*
February 7, 2017 — 10:21 AM
Leslie says:
At first I was upset that you said you won’t marry me. Then I saw that you don’t even own a wok. It would never work out between us.
February 7, 2017 — 11:34 AM
leslieartist333 says:
you got my adoration, see? But no cash. Sorry kid, I’m busted. It’s no use for me. Just go. Save yourself.
February 7, 2017 — 11:35 AM
Joan Young says:
Love the sauce idea, but not the spam or bacon. I’d use tempeh, meaty taste and feel without the unhealthy processing and additives.
February 7, 2017 — 1:29 PM
Casondra Brewster says:
I miss breakfast in Hawaii as well as the lunch specials with 2 scoop rice and Mac salad. Yum.
February 7, 2017 — 2:32 PM
Nina Angela McKissock says:
Will you marry me?
February 7, 2017 — 4:22 PM
Nina Angela McKissock says:
How do I post this on Anthony Bourdain’s site? He’d love this delivery.
February 7, 2017 — 4:25 PM
AA Payson says:
SCRUCKING FUMPTIOUS!
February 7, 2017 — 4:56 PM
iwritedumbshit says:
I’ll send the adoration when you change the pic from a macro of peas to a macro of that delicious sounding fried rice.
February 7, 2017 — 5:45 PM
Christine says:
Invisible cash flying to you. Probably more like adoration cause idk I don’t have your paypal or anything
February 7, 2017 — 6:33 PM
hbb says:
I usually glob on just oyster sauce after the rice goes in, and finish with the soy sauce at the end, so it steams up all fragrant, and permeates through. Oh, and don’t forget some ground black pepper. Spam is awesomeness in fried rice, but so is Portuguese sausage (Linguiça), just sayin’.
February 7, 2017 — 7:39 PM
chacha1 says:
hey, onions are vegetables. 🙂
Spam = hillbilly terrine = delicious. I am a middle-aged child of the Midwest and I grew up on Spam, and it is a secret love of mine.
this fried rice sounds really effing good.
I would suggest adding a can of pineapple niblets, well drained, right at the end.
February 7, 2017 — 8:33 PM
decayingorbits says:
Something else you can’t get in the lower 48? The multitude of SPAM varieties you find on the shelves of a typical Hawaiian supermarket. S kick it up a notch. Get the teriyaki SPAM!
February 8, 2017 — 6:07 AM
Rebecca Douglass says:
Not sure I can bring myself to eat Spam, but I love the delivery of this recipe. If this writing books thing doesn’t work out, you can always make a living with a cooking show, Chuck!
And why hadn’t I thought about fried rice for breakfast? And I wonder if I could dehydrate it and eat it three days into a wilderness backpacking trip. At that point, I’d even eat Spam, probably (but I know it won’t dry. Foods that are almost 100% fat don’t dehydrate. And now those of you who don’t backpack think I’m even weirder than Chuck).
February 8, 2017 — 11:35 AM
Widdershins says:
Best recipe ever! 😀
February 8, 2017 — 5:37 PM
Jana Leigh (@gingerish_fish) says:
Just so you know, rotisserie chicken makes the best fried rice ever. Those chicken drippins make it super yummy. 😀 And if you cook the green onions for a minute, the rice will get a slightly smokey flavor too.
February 9, 2017 — 6:11 PM
ABC says:
I like adding a bit of kecap manis in the fried rice
February 10, 2017 — 2:59 PM
It's Just A Theory... says:
… brilliant…
February 12, 2017 — 12:15 PM
Jennifer Irwin says:
Chuck, I love you. I’d give you a kidney, even, if you needed it. But you lost me at Spam.
February 19, 2017 — 12:16 PM
Jessie Voigts says:
THIS. My brother just reminded me of this recipe, and post, because he made it WITH SPAM. I guess we are all digging into our cupboards for more food. Thank you! LUNCH!
April 21, 2020 — 12:58 PM